The Karachi Chai Culture : Lessening Misogyny

Attending University is a privilege unfortunately millions miss out on in our region. I was among those who due to hard work of largely my mother, had the opportunity to attend a decent University. Not being a geek has its own perils. You learn more outside of the class than being Chattur. My friends and I, did not have to watch 3 Idiots to envision that. Results of our approach were eccentric bringing each of unique experience. That period for all of us can definitely be categorized as the best part of our lives. We spent a long time smoking Seesha in various cafes in affluent areas of Karachi (Defence and Clifton, primarily). It was almost a daily occurrence, where we would go to such cafes, play board games or watch live sports and spend 2-3 hours. It was more a social activity than our urge to smoke. We were young, devoid of responsibilities, and had some cash in our hands. It was fun, but it was limited to an all-male club almost 99.99% of the time. Though we had female friends at University, this Seesha activity was considered too ‘outward’ for them. If you do not buy my argument, just watch Pink and let Amitabh Bachpan explain it to you.

This was the accepted norm in the society. I wish, there was some data but regrettably there is none available. Therefore, I would have to make some assumptions based on my memories of the time. If I were to put a number on it, even during evening hours, probably 5-10% of the visitors would be females. Without stereotyping please allow me to make another assumption on basis of my experience of the city. Generally, this group would comprise of working girls or University going girls who belong upper classes and with generally relatively liberal parents. I do stress these are assumptions based on my own understanding of the city and its people. I do not remember a family sitting in any of those cafes ever. It would be a group of friends or work colleagues. Again a such privilege only a few can enjoy in the larger context, especially if you were a female.

In 2014, and I left Karachi to study in London for a couple of years. My friends either left the city or got busy with jobs. The rude awakening professional lives brings, hit us and our Central Park type sit outs were no longer possible. It was replaced by monthly skype calls. I returned recently to Karachi couple of years later to find that Seesha had banned by the provincial government. However, like most things people found a way to bend the rules. However, a large segment which went to cafes as a social activity, was not interested in making elongated efforts for smoking. They needed another outlet.

Enter posh Chai dhabbas. Phatan ka chai dhabba as the stereotype goes, has been part of Karachi’s culture for long. But it was limited relatively to lower to middle class areas. It wasn’t ‘cool’ before. Suddenly, in adversity of banned Seeshas, chai dhabas opened up in affluent areas of Karachi.

However, there was one critical difference in the audiences the cafes served and these dhabas are serving. Chai, a very acceptable forms of home addiction and is a gender neutral drink (Again, watch Pink if you disagree). The societal bars on women on chai aren’t present as such. So, when the product on offer wasn’t questionable by the plastic society standards, we could see more and more women at chai dhabas at all times. I was pleasantly shocked (Surprised wouldn’t do justice here), that my mom and my aunts have been to the Dhabas, post family dinners. Whilst being from a fairly liberal home, I could not imagine going to a seesha café with my mom; she just wouldn’t agree. But this induction of Chai Dhabas has introduced an entirely new crowd. I see families coming out to such dhabas post mid night with their daughters are having a hot drink. We could tell by that people from different classes were showing up as the environment and the price comparatively is more inclusive. It really is inspiring to see females reclaiming public space. As I researched a bit, I found the social media trend of #girlsatdhabba was probably behind in getting this movement started. Movements are effective when their goals become accepted norms. It surely has taken root and hey why should only men have all the fun?

A progressive Karachi is a Karachi for all.